Wednesday, January 9, 2019

Honduras Revisited: Axel and the Chapel


It was high time.  I had the opportunity to stop by Honduras on my way to Costa Rica for my sixth annual Study Abroad program that I lead.

May 25-28, 2017 – the last time I visited Honduras, my projects, and my godchild Axel Quintero Padilla. See my earlier post Tocayo

Then: 
My projects – the Moscati Conference Center and Dormitory , as it is so eloquently named, and the Holy Family Surgery Center Chapel were still being worked on, and were not well on track for completion for the Fall 2017 medical brigade – basically, a significant enough a state of incompleteness to feel that the project is not really finished, as the claim was made.  There was still much to be done and time running out.  And Axel? He was finished with high school and started his one year residency at NPH working in the school library as well as the special needs house, before he could start University.  So he was around at the time at least.

Now:
The Moscati Center has been open since the Fall of 2017 (opened unfinished of sheer necessity), though it was not serviceable for the September brigade.  It has since been mostly completed so as to be used as designed, and bugs are still being worked out.

But it has turned out well.

And Axel? He has turned out well, too.  I am proud of him, now 19 years old.


We spent Saturday, January 5, wandering the ranch, walking to the next town on a path I had walked many times, but never far enough to get to this town.  A mere collections of houses, a tiny school and church, nestled against a verdant backdrop of hills, Tamalequeso is a representation of what I think rural Honduras looks like.  Many of these townsfolks “commute” on foot to and through the ranch to get to their buses for work or provisions. We walked with a gentlemen my age, hoisting two bags of chips and related products over his shoulder to sell.  As he was laid off a few years ago from his 30 year job with NPH as a wood cutter, he received a small plot of land and stays satisfied.  We enjoyed an interesting conversation, as we could relate as older people being so much more “endurable” compared to the much younger Axel.  I think I wore him out on this trek of over 7 miles.


The town has been visited by Axel before, and on the only soccer field, tournaments have been played.  It was quite warm that day, so we stopped at what could pass as a house but was really a small tienda selling snacks and soft drinks.  I confess to a weak spot for central American Coke as it is sweetened with real sugar.  Combined with some Yucca chips, it made for an adequate snack and rest stop.
Typical small house and farm in the town, typically of mud brick
and wood and tile roofs.
It was a really special time.  There is an overriding sense of peace in this place, yet it is rooted in many sad stories of family loss.  We had many conversations, but the one that resonated with me most, was Axel’s decision not to become a doctor but to pursue architecture.  When asked why the change of heart, he realized he can still help people as an Architect.  Shelter and food is a greater, more fundamental human need even than medical care.  And we help people with shelter.

The ranch farm, looking toward one of my favorite hills to
climb on my morning walks.
Which brings me to my projects.

The Moscati Center is nice, especially the courtyard, encircled by suspended hammocks between the columns (an idea not credited to me but rather to my longtime, recently deceased friend David Andersen).  It is quite adequate in terms of volunteer housing, perhaps even a bit too nice for a poor nation that attracts missionaries. But I was reminded that the medical staff on these brigades work very long hours and deserve a decent environment.  They have it.

Front view of the Moscati Center

The courtyard - just wait a few years for the vegetation to become lush

Hammocks and homemade folding wooden chairs

But the chapel attached to the One World Surgery Center is, as I announced to Axel, one of my favorite projects. Small, trapezoidal in plan, and literally carved out of the rock mountain, utilizing this indigenous stone as building blocks, it is, in my opinion, a jewel.  Oh yes, there are little things that I think could have been done better, but the craftsmen that worked so diligently on this little structure poured all their love, heart and muscle into this holy shrine.  Many never get to work on a church – it is certainly honorable to do so.  Carpenters made the pews, rails, niches and altar all out of local Honduran mahogany, beautifully executed.  A natural, mortarless true Roman arch with a keystone was the work of true stonemasons, along with the quarter sphere “dome,” an architectural reference to a transept.  The gently warped roof accentuates the ceiling as it rises to the front, and the trapezoidal shape plays tricks on the eyes in terms of the visual perspective inside the space.

It is one of the few truly theatrical, in a sense, creative spaces I have done.  And I am quite pleased at the result, and more pleased by the good work of the craftsman that make it what it is.  Let’s hope it lasts.

A visual gallery follows:

Exterior view showing warped roof plan and stone quarter dome.
The stone was quarried right from the church site.

Peking in through the beautiful mahogany doors.

Trapezoidal plan to emphasize the theatrical perspective and sense of space and distance.


The main sanctuary as seen from the entrance doors.  The trapezoidal
plan alters the true perspective, making the altar seem more distant than it really is.

The view from the altar, which appears closer and smaller to the priest.

The crucifix suspended in the arch, seeming to float

Mary in her backlit stone niche. Note the curved mahogany doors.

The altar, made and carved by the local craftsman - truly a labor of divine love.

Angelic!  I do try!



Monday, January 7, 2019

This Particular Christmas in Ethiopia


Today, January 7th, 2019, is Christmas in Ethiopia.

Recall Abi Jemal, the young waif that I met in Ethiopia in 2015 who shunned his real name for that of “Joe” to this tall American.  He assisted me when I was nearly pick-pocketed, and we ended up spending the next few days meeting, exploring the city, and just talking, for he was reasonable with his English. So what happened to him, and what does all this have to do with Christmas?  

Brace yourself for a story both sad and uplifting, for we remained in contact all these years.

Abi Jemal Siraj – Joe - went through some pretty rough times.  He took me up on my offer to go to language school to improve his skills, and then got a job teaching English in far northern Ethiopia, where he quickly succumbed to the ill effects of bad water, and had to return to the City to be hospitalized, with a serious kidney ailment that required a transplant, and a bit more of my help.   
He recovered and then opened a small stand selling vegetables, and a modest improvement to his prosperity had started.  He purchased a truck, and a tiny one room apartment (if you can call it that – more like a hovel to us) and continued with his teaching and learning English, and selling vegetables.  His truck did need some repairs – can’t haul your vegetables if you have no truck. 

I had sent him a care package of some clothes and a special book in English, to improve his English abilities – Les Miserables by Victor Hugo, a magnificent and timeless story of hardship and redemption that he might be able to relate to. 

Enter Gebru Getachew, a director of a micro finance agency in June, 2018, indicating that Abi had inquired about a loan with an opportunity to sell milk to a local university and a hotel on a long term contract, which Gebru arranged.  His agency was willing to loan the required capital to start the business, but Abi needed to demonstrate $3,000 in the Bank, and only had half that, so I lent him the funds, along with some additional startup capital, and he obtained the contract with the school, and with his first payment quickly paid off his micro-finance loan.  This is the way micro-finance is supposed to work, and what will emanicipate the economic engine which (can be) Africa.

Abi on his milk run


Life seems good, but bad luck in some quarters is always around the corner.  In this case, it was the poor story of Sara Mekonnen. In August, 2018, I received the following message from Gebru:

Dear Mr.Peter!       
I sent you this sad news with broken heart.  As aware of, by your support and my little cooperation Abi was doing his business hard. Every day he was driving 30 km from Addis, collected the college and hotels. To deliver the milk on time he was rented pick up car run it out. But due to Saturday is Ethiopian main marketing day and much crowded this morning he has got accident and killed one lovely girl and he jailed in police station. I and my wife sad by this. Because as he told me about his life back ground he doesn't have any family except you future will be darken. What I would like to inform you for the time being Monday he will face in court. I will attend the secession and let you know. Please let your prayer reach to Abi.    
Mr. Gebru.

Gebru, his family, and Abi had developed a good relationship by this point, and so attending his hearing was in and of itself an act of mercy, for without family or anyone to rescue him, Abi would rot in jail for 18 years for want of a path out. Gebru’s wife, Tigist Tadesse, even went to the jail to bring him food.  The following message came a few days later:

Dear Mr.Peter.    As I expressed by my previous message Abi was faced in court and the case seen. I was presented and attended. However happened by the car brake problem but Abi been guilty and the court gave appointment for tomorrow for the judgment. Again today I was discussed with one Lowery [lawyer]. What he advised me the only situation to out from this is make negotiation with the girl family to pay compensation and close the case. Unless he will be sentenced more than 15 years. This issue made by mind restless. Because I have also children and thinking as Abi like one of my son. But since we are poor country what can I do? Any way I will let you know the judgment. The other point, I went to the college and explained the problem the director and he assured me as the college will be patient until the judgment. Finally when Abi returned to the police station he told me to pass the following message to you. “My father Peter I bow under your knee and ask you by the name of God to save my life.”   Regards Mr. Gebru!

Gebru arranged for priests to arbitrate with the family and a settlement was reached in the accidental death of Sara Mekonnen, 15 years old, on August 11, 2018.  Abi was released and back at work delivering milk.  It can be said that justice is very swift, but not always deemed to be justice in the eyes of all affected, as we shall soon see.

As I have now gotten to know Gebru’s family through Abi, some time passed, and then there was another life to save.  A family of six children ages 18 to a 6 month old son, the eldest daughter, Selamawit, required heart surgery for a dilated cardiac myopathy, with the only safe place to receive this care in South Africa.  An expensive procedure was beyond the reach of Gebru’s family, and so he turned to me and his distant uncle to help him bridge the gap.  Selamawit received the treatment and has since recovered.  For this deed, along with a gracious thank you, we received a package of blankets from Tigist, thanking us profusely for saving her daughter.  Selamawit is a beautiful young woman, and is attending Kunzla University, two years into in a six year program in civil engineering, and receiving excellent grades.

Selamawit - sent with her package


In the meantime, while Gebru was in South Africa, Abi continued to pick up his milk from the farmers, and one day in October, 2018, he was shot by the uncles of Sara Mekonnen, and seriously injured. 

Can there really be any more bad luck that can fall upon a person? A family? A society?  I was incredulous at this news.

Abi was hospitalized with two bullets lodged in his arm, and Tigist took the best care she could of him while Gebru was in South Africa with Selamawit. I had corresponded directly with the doctors on his treatment and progress, and agreed that he was to be hospitalized and have the bullets removed.  There is no public health care coverage that is in any way meaningful, and the only upside is that the cost of health care is so much lower than in the United States, but not always the best of care.  Abi recovered after about 12 days in the hospital, under Tigist’s tender care, as a mother to her own son.  And he was back to work on his milk runs again.

Life seemed back on track, on all fronts.  I received this note from Selamawit on November 21st:

Dear.Mr.Peter.                                                                                          
My name is Selamawit Gebru. The daughter of Mr. Gebru. Inspire of the fact is is too small but I sent you my gift. Just to express my gratitude. If I am not student or I have more I never retreat to do a lot. From my gift the pens and basckets made by my hands. Because it is your hands saved my life. Till I leave this earth you and my father are the same for me. A part from, I am second year engineering student. I sent you the first year my grade points. As you see from my grade I am great distiniction student. After few months I will recieve second year grade point and will send you. Abi told me as you are engineer and I will be live you after 4 years
Selamawit

What happens next is beyond sad.

I received a message from Selamawit not a few weeks later that I cannot bear to publish, for she reported that Gebru had fathered another child out of wedlock, which is a mortal sin in Christian Ethiopia, that a dispute naturally arose between Tigist and Gebru, and while he came home drunk one day, he murdered Tigist in front of the children. His family of 6 siblings is now under Selamawit’s care as the eldest, with no other family, and she wanting to finish school.  She implored that if I will not graduate and help my siblings the only chance they will get is to live on the street and only choice that's left for me to be a prostitute so I can earn money to take care of my little sister and brother.” 

And she is right, she cannot follow that path.

After corresponding directly with Kunzla University and confirming her status, I have conveyed a three year scholarship to finish school, with the University extending one free year for her under these extraordinary circumstances.  She has excellent prospects in Ethiopia to support her family, and to work in civil engineering in a country known as one of the fastest growing, and with (apparently) new and enlightened national leadership.  She has her house, and a neighbor helping to care for the infant, and a developing skill as a weaver. There is hope, but no potential for work, school and family all at once, at least for now.  This is a tough situation.

And Abi?  My “son” is paying it forward to help Selamawit and her family.   He is awaiting a large (by Ethiopian standards) payment against his contract to the university (of which I have seen the promissory note), and he will be on track – for now – for with this tale of sadness and redemption, one can never know what lurks around the next corner.

So you may be thinking this is hardly a story for Christmas.  But indeed it is.  Christmas is about giving and receiving gifts, of thankfulness, of helping others.  These years since my first visit to Ethiopia in 2015 have been revelatory.  These problems have intertwined Abi and Gebru’s family with me.  And maybe, in time, with my support as her adopted father, I can also assist Selamawit achieve her meaningful goals -off the street - and by extension, her siblings.  I asked that she send me a picture of her family:

Selamawit with Henock (16) behind her, Belaynesh (14) Alazar (9) next
to Selamawit, and Betetlhem (12)  Baby boy not shown.

Christmas in Ethiopia involves the slaughter of a goat and celebration.  While it will not be the happiest of Christmases for Selamawit and her family, there is hope for the future.  I have asked her if she will see her father in prison, and at first, she did not wish to do so, but in the last few days, did visit him.  And the response is sad, for Gebru was the glue that bound all of Abi, Tigist, Selamawit and her siblings together, and that glue has failed to hold. He wrote a personal note to me that Selamawit passed along but a few days ago. 

January 4, 2019
Dearest Mr. Peter,
I sent this message from the second hell in small prison darken room.  I am like in concentration camp.  Not only I killed my wife but also myself and my children.  Yes I am guilty.  What I ask you by the name of God is due to my children don’t have any single family don’t far from them.  I am 20 year prisoner and I delivered my children to you whether I out from this hell or not.  Specially visit Selamawit.  Because of she is top most clever student please support her by your potential.  If her study interupt my kids will decend to grave. I have given them to you on the earth and you will deliver me in the heaven however your wage is from God.
Faithfully yours
Gebru

I have both given and received.  I feel as if my role in this strange tale is as the bishop in Les Miserables who let the candlesticks go to enable Jean Valjean to find his place in society. I could go on.

January 7 is our Christ X-mas. On this date goat or sheep slaughter chicken, cheese, beverage and other prepared, neighbors invited and we spent happily. Now that has been history. Yes by the coming our Christ X-mas my brothers and sisters will expect that. But it can't. Because our parents already gone. Because I don't have any thing to do like before. So spend by closed door house.

I sent a small stipend to Abi to provide for the goat and other essentials. Her brothers and sisters have a gift in Selamawit and Abi, not the unwrapping kind, and only time will hopefully reveal how lucky they are to have them at this time. I only hope her neighbors, her school and her society can help her achieve.  We usually do not know or experience this kind of hardship in our day-to-day existence.

Abi and Selamawit are spending Christmas together today with the family.  Today, I honor their courage to continue on.

Monday, December 10, 2018

RIP: Wayne Rex Stallard 1926-2018

Eulogy for Wayne Rex Stallard,    1926 - 2018
Family Man, Friend, Mason, Rotarian, Veteran and a Jayhawk.

Delivered at Old Mission Methodist Church, Fairway, Kansas    December 12, 2018

Thanks to all of you for being here today, and celebrating the memory of Wayne Rex Stallard.  Rex means "king" and I would offer that is quite appropriate.  I wish to emphasize the word celebrate, for I believe Wayne would not want us to wallow in sorrow.  For those of you who do not know me, I am Peter Hilger, his son-in-law of 41 years.  He asked me to deliver his eulogy before he passed, and I am deeply honored for the opportunity to do so.

Commemorative Poster by Heather Hilger
I am going to start with some adjectives that I have both heard and have known about Wayne these past few weeks, and see if these match up with your own impressions and fondest memories of Wayne:
  •      Smart
  •      Caring
  •      Fiercely Competitive
  •      Quietly opinionated
  •      Astute
  •      Generous
  •      Compassionate
  •      Forgiving
  •      Humble
  •      Rock chalk

Well, that last one is not an adjective, but rather a state of being. 

As you dwell on these adjectives, and I know there are more, I will return to them, let me share my story with Wayne and Peach.

It was Spring of 1975.  I was an Architecture student at Georgia Tech who caught the eye of Becky, and at some point in time – you know, the fog of love clouds the precise memory of time – Peach came to visit Becky, whereupon I was invited to meet her over dinner:  a young college student with a blonde pony tail.  For those of you that knew Peach, that would not be a good start to creating an affirmative impression, and the word of this “boy” having a pony tail and dating Becky made its way promptly to Wayne, who would heartily disapprove of this potential match.  It was sometime later that I was invited to visit Becky in Kansas City, where I traveled by bus, quite nervous and without a pony tail, to meet her sisters Jennifer and Melanie, and of course, Wayne.

I guess it went a bit better without a pony tail – that was progress.  But Becky recalls how, when Peach suggested our intention to wed in 1977, he thundered “how is he going to support her?”, failing to recognize that Becky fully intended to support herself in spite of marriage, and I was still that good-for-nothing guy that had a pony tail.

So began my long association with the Stallard family. He was blessed with three daughters, but I think he was finally glad to have a son around every so often.  It is told to me that he often took refuge from the four women in his daily life outside by the barbecue, talking to their dog Schwerd.

From those early days, I picked up a few things that I have carried through my life.  First and foremost, an interest in business even though I pursued architecture.  Though Wayne wanted me to be successful (presumably so I could support his daughter), there were no lessons per se but one – he was an avid reader of business magazines, particularly Forbes Magazine, which I latched onto and absorbed for years.  It influenced me greatly in my own business, and those lessons, I am proud to say, I am carrying on to my students to this day.  That publication, and many others, occupied his extensive reading list until the end.

Mine is but one story, and it is filled with adjectives.  But what of your stories? Your memories?

Let’s start with his daughters.  Wayne set high standards for all of his girls, and all tried oh-so-hard to achieve those standards, not always succeeding in what he wanted for them, but each succeeding in their own ways for what mattered to them.

It was this high bar that enabled Becky to find her own interests, much in common with Wayne, such as sports, space and any manner of intellectual challenges.  And ultimately, Becky found her way into the information technology realm, to which Wayne said her “peculiar talents are well suited to programming.” She was never sure how to take that word “peculiar”, whether a compliment or “stimulant”, but it can be said that they ended up lifelong friends with common interests. They traveled together on several occasions to points around the globe that remain among her strongest memories of Wayne. 
  
For Melanie it can be said that she did not always agree with Wayne’s standards for her either, other than that she attended and graduated from KU!  And this led to lifelong challenges between them, but as in every challenge for Wayne,  this too was met with grace and ultimately redemption, for Melanie stated one of her strong recollections was Wayne’s forgiveness and embrace of Melanie when they really both needed each other.  Melanie, it should be noted, was key to Wayne’s care over the past year, and we thank her, he thanks her, for that tireless care.

Jennifer recollected upon his ability to recall the most arcane facts and figures, including one time around a dinner table a guest casually wondered what the origin of a Ruben sandwich he was eating, to which Jennifer simply called out to Wayne to answer the question – and he did, to the amazement of most except his family, who knew that he would likely know this arcane fact. And of her husband Earl Vicknair, it can be said that Wayne finally had another son.

Wayne took great pride in his two grandchildren, watching them grow up to become the self-sufficient high achievers they are, with particular pride that Ryan attended KU, and during those four years was a constant companion for Wayne - another son!  Ryan was then, and continues to be, a Navy man for which Wayne, a veteran himself, was enormously proud, especially as he rose the ranks.  He could challenge Wayne in gin and pool with the best of them. And it was perhaps the blossoming of Ryan’s love of Heather Sherman, found and incubated during these four years at KU, that resulted in an especially proud moment, their marriage in this very sanctuary eleven years ago. Wayne adored Heather, and she created this sign in his honor today.

And of Laura, he reveled in her travels around the world, and was especially proud to visit her in London not once but twice, to travel with her and meet up with his lifelong friend Harry Harrison in Scotland.  I should like to quote Laura:  I could combine all the languages I know and it would still not be enough to express how I feel about you and how much you have meant to my life. You are everything a girl could have wanted in a grandpa and my life has been filled with so many wonderful memories of you (and Grandma), ones that will always hold a special place in my heart. I will remember you for your kindness, for your intelligence, for your humor. I will remember you for your positivity, contagious smile and joyful spirit. I will remember you for your generosity, your fairness and your unwavering faith. These are qualities I've long admired and respected in you - and ones I have long hoped to live up to in my own life.

Two great grandchildren – Charlotte and Henry – visited him just a few weeks ago at his 92nd birthday celebration.  And as young children ages 5 and 3 respectively, they do not always take a shine to imposing old men, sometimes finding them a bit scary, but on this occasion, they seemed to embrace him, even if they do not quite understand his place in their family history. But there is a heartwarming tale from this visit.  On the occasion of his birthday dinner, Charlotte insisted on saying grace.  Can you imagine what was going through Wayne’s mind at this moment?  He had come full circle with his own devotion, to his faith and to his family, to have his great-granddaughter at age 5 recite a prayer of thankfulness.  But not to be outdone by his big sister, Henry insisted on saying grace as well, and then proceeded to cradle the little microphone device Wayne used of late in his hand and recite a prayer devoid of any comprehension for the rest of us, earnestly delivered, with only the word “amen” barely understandable.  It was a magical moment for Wayne and the rest of us.



    Me, Laura, little Henry, Heather, Wayne, Ryan, Charlotte and Becky
    at Henry's Christening in 2016


    Carl Stallard, two years and two months younger than Wayne, always looked up to his bigger brother, and seemed to follow his lead, for as Carl stated, Wayne was so much smarter than him, and that he always set the standard to do the right thing.  He recalled picking potatoes together on a farm in Lawrence one summer, a job which Carl had followed Wayne to. Wayne was always called upon to speak at family events, for he had a gift of the tongue, and of their visits to see Nadine in Kingsley, an event that brought Wayne and Carl into more constant communication later in their lives.  And perhaps the most telling story of Wayne’s devotion to family, as Carl recites it, was his eager enlistment in the Army Air Corps in World War II, where he was sent to Wisconsin for flight training.  And as the war then came to an end, the training abruptly stopped, for pilots were no longer needed.  But out of this experience and his demonstrated intellectual capacity, he was offered an appointment to West Point.  But ever devoted to his family and his mother’s wish that he had been gone long enough and needed to come home, he declined the invitation, and returned home.  So I guess we can be happy for his sacrifice, for his family here today would probably not be here, had he accepted the appointment to West Point!


    Wayne Stallard in Army Air Corps - 1944
    Shirley Stallard was the wife of Wayne’s older brother Glenn, and they were married the year before Peach and Wayne.  And so began a lifelong friendship between Wayne and Shirley.  Wayne had mentioned that she long ceased to be a sister-in-law, and instead became a sister.  Shirley was there for Wayne, through all the years thick and thin, through the slow demise of Peach, and as a steady companion for Wayne through his late life challenges.  The rest of us in the family adore you Aunt Shirley, and can only thank you from the bottom of our hearts for being there for him.

    And we must recognize the wonderful companionship of Audrey Irick.  Audrey wrote a wonderful message to Wayne on his recent birthday, part of which I now share: “Yes, we have kissed, dined and had a little wine, but of all the occasions in the US, India, Australia, New Zealand, Europe, Mexico, Canada, Costa Rica, Hawaii and the San Juan Island, our favorite place was in your kitchen.  There we could openly share our thoughts and feelings, always laugh at some silly funnies, and comfortably pray.”  Audrey, we all know what a true friend you were to Wayne, and we thank you deeply for sharing your life with his.

    Wayne and Peach led a good life, not perfect for there were many challenges along the way, of course.  But of those challenges, he always seemed to approach them with humility, to rise up again and dust himself off as if nothing ever happened.  He had a wonderful affair with food and wine, relishing a very good steak – Steak Wayne as it was called. Indeed, he loved Andre’s Confiserie, for he was well known there, and enjoyed all the Swiss charm and goodies they had to offer.  We have brought some of their treats for you to enjoy after this service, for he would have wanted it this way. But I think Becky may have said it best that more than the food itself, he enjoyed the "community of the table", to share the experience of food and life with everyone.  Today, this is his community of that larger table that is his life, enmeshed with all of yours.

    He was, of course, devoted to his larger community, to all his businesses over the years, and to his colleagues in Rotary, the Masons, and Delta Tau Delta fraternity, all of which spanned nearly his entire adult life.  As to this church and his faith, I will ask Pastor Leslie to expand upon this devotion.

    So have we covered the adjectives?  The teacher in me says “now class, let’s review”:
    • Smart? – gosh, was he ever.  Have you seen his library? His reading list? His thirst for knowledge and the ability to recite facts and figures was an enviable trait.
    • Caring? – one can only recite his daily devotion to Peach and her sister Marian as they both rested at the Garden Terrace nursing home.  He never gave up on them.
    • Fiercely Competitive? – oh dear, this is a big one!  Whether on the tennis court in years gone by, whether playing pool in the basement, word puzzles, or cards with anyone that dared, he was fiercely competitive.
    • Quietly opinionated? – not a grandstander, he.  But he was loaded with opinions that tilted strongly conservative, very much in keeping with the Greatest Generation that he was part of. He was very sorry to learn of President Bush’s recent passing, and watched his funeral with great interest.
    • Devout? – ever so dedicated to this place, Old Mission Methodist Church, for so many years, with deep convictions and devotion to God
    • Generous? – as we are in the midst of the Christmas season, that was always a special time for him, for we all awaited a certain envelope containing greenbacks, beyond the enormity of the gifts already received and opened.  And I honor him today by wearing his sport coat and the shirt off of his back, with WRS embroidered on the cuff.
    • Forgiving? – as with all of us, there were many setbacks he experienced during his long life, but he always forgave and moved along to the next thing, as though that first thing never happened.
    • Compassionate? – I think it can be said that he loved, that he loved well, and that he loved unconditionally.
    • Humble? – he was a simple person, never one to rise above his humility lest he be perceived as arrogant.
    • Rock chalk? – it is hard to imagine a more devoted fan of KU and all that it stood for – academics and sports, particularly I believe, basketball.  He has an eternal ringside seat now, as it truly was a state of his being.  

    Oh, I am sure there are many more adjectives that we could ascribe, and as a wordsmith himself, he would at this very moment be challenging his daughters to a competition as to who would get the most appropriate adjectives – yet he would lose due to his own humility.  But on one point all can agree:  his mother had always admonished Wayne that "you should not act nice – you should be nice!"

    We have lost you, Wayne, but we shall not mourn, we celebrate your life.  We are thankful for what you have brought to each and every one of us to enrich our own lives.  You will be rejoining Peach, your parents and siblings in the hereafter, and may you enjoy your eternal peace with them, knowing you have done well for all of us, until such time that we shall join you there.

    And one final story. As each of us within the family now know so well, when you were talking on the phone with us, and felt that all had been said that needed to be said, you simply said:   “OK, Bye now”, and you promptly hung up.

    OK, Bye now.





    Monday, August 13, 2018

    Traveling, with luck!

    One version of luck is that God has given you a break.  I have had many miles these last few days along the southern half of the Cote du Nord to reflect on our luck.  Here I sit today, in Chicoutimi, Saguenay, on the last biking day of this trip, feeling quite lucky.

    We were lucky to make all our ferry connections, including the final one up the fjord to Sainte Rose du Nord, a small, quaint village nestled into a hollow valley between high steep hills, reminiscent of the rural sections of the Appalachians.  Indeed, it was suggested that if the fog was too thick, the ferry would not run from St. Barbe to Blanc Sablon, that would have caused us to miss this entire Cote du Nord stretch for want of the next Bella Desgagnes ferry one a week hence.

    We were lucky to have seen so much music on this trip, more than any other, and quite unexpectedly.  Yesterday, as we were checking into the Gite au Jardin Potager in Sainte Rose du Nord, a couple of gentlemen standing in the small front hallway spoke English, and suggested there would be music tonight - at 9:30 - in the tent.  We soon came to realize that we arrived in this village during the Festival of the Artisans, and were treated to two concerts: a local folk-ish group from Chicoutimi (our final destination today), and then these five fellow guests at the Gite - Les Charbonniers - a sensational five-person Quebec based a capella group formed in the 1990's with a very powerful, perfectly timed rhythm and blended voice.  Incorporating two sticks and drumming feet on a board for the percussion, this group ran through 60+ minutes of pure vocal energy.

    Les Charbonniers a capella group playing in Sainte Rose du Nord
    How would we have even come to know "mummers" in Woody Point, or a "kitchen party" in Rocky Harbor, or an Acadian vocalist in the church at Riviere de Tonnera, or a local open mike session in Port au Choix, featuring a couple playing much traditional Newfie music?  And what of the Saguenay International Rythym of the World  festival in Chicoutimi, featuring a young, award winning Latin jazz fusion group El Son Sono, lead by a brother and sister team on guitar and vocals, respectively.  Dancing in the streets!

    What luck!

    Ahh, but there is so much else, the small things that happen on such a trip, the biggest of which is being lucky enough to even make such a trip.  Of my body still able to handle the rigors (for I don't know how long). Of not having any accidents or mishaps given the number of miles on roads with little or no shoulder and trucks rumbling by.  Of not getting sick from drinking bad water - the potential certainly existed in a few places. But speaking of water, seeing so many waterfalls along the way that one took them for granted, except perhaps, the giant Manitou Falls and those towering cascades in Western Brook in Gros Morne National Park.

    The Chute - the second of two successive waterfalls 

    Wildlife is hard to see by bicycle. I was lucky to see two moose, even though everybody warned of the moose in Newfoundland - one cow that was standing roadside as I rounded an uphill curve, unable to get  its picture before it wandered into the bush.  And of wildlife, lucky to not have been spiked by several porcupines, nor struck by an angry kildeer, dive bombing me with an angry squawk as its little chick was scampering across the road. 

    Lucky to hold this little fella, who was dizzy from striking a window
    in St. Anthony.  We talked for awhile - chickadee whisperer!

    Moose kill a lot of drivers in Newfoundland - and vice versa!
    Of riding 15 days predominantly with tailwinds, and a few kilometers and one full day into the wind, beating the expected odds of headwinds along the entirety of the Cote-du-Nord!  Of Nelson, our cabbie, who showed up in Sept Isle in his Toyota cab, saw our bikes, and went home and got his own pickup to haul us 30+ miles down the road in a rain storm.

    Of rolling to a bicycle shop in Baie Comeau, a fine small town with a great brewery, just as my pedal fell apart, which would have been an unexpected disaster - easily replaced so the trip could continue.  After all, there were only three bicycle shops on the entire stretch, near the beginning and two near the end.  And certainly, at least for me, only one flat before the first kilometer could be recorded (Richard had 4 in one day, but none hence).

    That pedal has thousands of miles on it - poor fella!

    What luck to stop for a moment at the main church in Les Bergeronnes, constructed in 1915, open, yet empty but for a church member/docent who could speak English well enough to give me a personal tour and history of this grand wooded edifice, including the old theater pipe organ purchased in the 1950's from an American theater in Philadelphia that now graces the sanctuary.

    The Church of Our Lady of Good Desire in Les Bergeronnes
    (Eglise de Notre Dame du Bon Desir)
    My tour guide, delighted I was an  architect with whom he could
    share the history and details of changes made over the years.

    1950's Theater Organ
    And speaking of humanly encounters, I would be remiss in not expressing our good luck in meeting so many people along the way, something that happens a lot on a bicycle. Most especially to Clara, who is still riding somewhere in eastern Canada and gives us updates.  To Christine and Nathalie, with whom a bottle of wine was split on their deck, just talking, watching for whales.  To our cabbies who spread their knowledge.  To the fisherman who gave us his story behind his fish house, and so many others.

     
    Chatting with a fisherman along the way.

    Christine and Nathalie - from Montreal

    To Clara - wherever you are - grinding up those hills in flip flops!

    And what luck, after seeing piles of tourists in Tadoussac, the first real quaint, yet touristy destination of our trip, piling into whale watching tour boats, to have Captain Keith give us a personal tour of the bay in St. Lunaire-Griguere, and get close to the whales in his small homemade 12 person launch.

    Cap'n Keith - what a highlight you provided in your little launch!

    What luck that we didn't have to sleep outside with no equipment, that all of our reservations came through without a hitch, even having navigated many of them in French.  The potential for a surprising error was certainly possible.

    Or that we found food when we needed it, and never pulled out the first aid kit.  And of the food, the luck of experiencing some great (and not so great) traditional fare - French: meat pies and salmon pies, and Newfie: dried capelin, Newfie steak (bologna), brewis (fish and hard tack), bakeapples (not apples but single berries from a ground hugging, abundant plant), Cod tongues (yes, just as it sounds), and jiggs dinner (boiled salt beef and root vegetables).  And anywhere, abundant seafood (mainly cod and halibut), seafood soups and any manner of crustaceans and shellfish.  Not to mention the great luck in discovering some great ale's!

    St. Pancrace Brown Ale - the best!  Especially with 1960's James Brown tunes
    to accompany every swallow


    Dried Capelin and deep fried Cod tongues

    And what luck that I rode ahead of Richard most times, and that he was there to pick up that which I dropped: an inner tube case and one sandal that had fallen off unbeknownst to me.  And what luck that Richard was able to retrieve his cell phone in the car from his housemate Abby in time before we even took off from the airport on this trip, without knowing her phone number!  (thanks for taking our call for help, Carmen!).

    Dare'nt I dwell on the bad luck of the trip?  The weather?  The crushing climbs?  The aches and pains?

    No, that is expected on a bicycle trip - it's the law of averages at work.  Bad luck is just an opportunity to find good luck in its place.

    Luck is truly a product of the unexpected, and this trip had so much of that as to dwarf those soggy climbs.

    The end of the ride!  Lucky to be here.