Monday, July 13, 2015

The Full Range of Experience

Written July 12, 2015 from Pelee Island, Ontario
(64 miles)

Arrived in Cleveland at 2:30 AM, unable to have slept for the rockin' of the rails and squeaking of the suspension was a bit too much to manage.  Took only a few minutes to assemble my bike, and then rode through downtown in search of a room.  All full - except the fine lady at the Holiday Inn Express said that is I could wait a few minutes, until 3AM, she would book me into a no-show room. Done!

Arrived to my fourth floor room in this historic building to find a frathouse atmosphere, with some loud, boisterous and obviously drunk young men wandering the hall.  It is Saturday night - er, Sunday morning -  after all!  Just about to slip into bed and bury my head beneath two pillows when I heard gunfire ring out on Euclid Street below - and saw the shooter run away, and the victim lying on the street, with his compatriots anxiously try to get him moved, and away as the sirens roared.  Where was I and what world did I step into?  I did finally fall asleep - and soundly for four hours.

By 8:30 I was on my bike anxious to get out of town with no traffic on a Sunday morning, for I needed to be in Sandusky to catch my 3:00 PM ferry to Pelee Island, 60+ miles west.  As I was finding my way out off downtown, I received an escort from another biker - an attorney for the FDIC - who pointed me in the right direction, wish as he was that he could do what I was embarking upon.  The road out of Cleveland passed through some wonderful old neighborhoods, similar to Summit Avenue in St. Paul, so it was a bit of a visual treat  for me.

A true greenhouse
The road to Sandusky (that sounds like a title to a western novel, or a bike trip journal) was level, taking me through small towns and rural landscapes - and in the rain, which pretty much lasted most of the afternoon.  But it was cool and comfortable riding, and the rain not really bothersome.  Made a few stops along the way, but the most memorable was turning a corner in Huron and running headlong into their festival, with their Main Street lined with food trucks, most heavily laden with tempting but greasy food I would dare not eat on a road trip, but also a stage featuring the Huron high school cheerleading squad, giving their seniors a local sendoff, much to the appreciate of some senior fellows standing next to me - senior as in high school, not as in "Peter".  Such a contrast to Cleveland some 45 miles away - this was the land of apple pie, bunting and community spirit.
Boy with the boot - Sandusky symbol

Arrived Sandusky around 1:00, bought my ferry ticket, and was told of the "Lunch Box" Restaurant in town that had pretty good food - you know the place, very local, homemade food, some smart alec waitstaff.  Chicken noodle soup, some french fries, and a peach milkshake.  I love what I can eat when I bike!  Toured the City a bit reminded of Winona with all its architectural charms- learned of it's Revolutionary War roots - sited as recompense on the "western reserve"  for  the burning of settlers acreage by Benedict Arnold - and hence known as the "Firelands". The City was also one of the only cities in the country laid out by Freemasons and incorporating their sacred geometry into the plan.

The ferry was cold and wet, and I had the presence of mind to wear my raincoat.  Met a young fellow, another biker - Jordan Richard, from Guelph - travelling alone, so we chatted awhile - he went on to Leamington.  I also chatted with another former Minnesotan, now an Aggie from Texas, who knew Norman Borlaug and had him come to her class (in plant genetics).  Small world really.

The Pelee ferry
Disembarked on Pelee, was "welcomed home" (from my Canadian birth) by the Border Agent, who seemed to take a greater interest in my panniers than their contents.  Peddled about 4 miles north on this very quaint island - time seems to standstill here, and while  tourist come to stay in the B&B's, there are really few facilities to cater to them, and that is just fine.  And much of what is there is a bit tired. I had reserved a campsite at the Anchor and Wheel Inn, but had no interest in the wet conditions, nor the abundant mosquitoes, but did accept an offer of a room at a discounted price. Credit card camping has its benefits.  Enjoyed a meal of blackened shrimp, salad and a beer!

But it was the clearing western sky that drew me and the fabulous opportunity of a Lake Erie sunset. I reflected back on the entirety of the day, starting at 2:30 AM, and it truly was a range of experiences!




Pelee Sunset

And again . . .

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