Erie Canal

July 17 - Niagara Falls. Ontario to Rochester, NY
87 miles, mostly wet!

Anxious to start the new part of this Erie journey, not along the lake, but the long canals, I made a bee-line for Lockport from Niagara after crossing the border.  And a beeline would not be inappropriate, for compared to thee Canadian side, the American side of the Falls is a pretty dreadful, lifeless, ill-maintained place.

Locks in Lockport

Though the canal meets Lake Erie just north of Buffalo, Lockport is famous for its four step  ladder type lock, right in the heart of town.  While the "new" canal of circa 1918 replaced the original, paary of the original remains today, and is quite interesting to see.
I followed a well groomed towpath to Albion in a light rain - a town entirely on the National Register for Historic Preservation, all beautifully restored, but strangely empty of life and aactivity, with many storefronts empty and offices closed on this Friday afternoon..  Took lunch at only place on Main Street - a small Mexican restaurant.  The proprietor confirmed my sense of the place, frustrated at the lack of tourists.

However, the next town of Brockport was quite a different story (and also to its benefit, a college town) - a bustling town on also on the National Register as well, with a vibrant Main Street. How does one succeed and the other not?  Proximity to Rochester may be the reason.

Typical canal route

As it was getting late, I tried my luck at a B&B in Adams Basin - a tiny town indicative of the "way stops" along the canal that sprung up, now just a collection of a few buildings.  There was no room at the only inn, though still being used as an inn when originally constructed in the 1820's.  I then hustled in to Rochester - an intersection of waterways, the Erie canal and the Genessee River flowing north to nearby Lake Ontario.  And also where I took my rest at a Holiday Inn by the airport.

Rochester or canal reborn?

Groomed willow

July 18 - Rochester to Weedsport
75 miles, mostly hot

Clinton Square - site of former Erie Canal - Rochester

Massive thunderstorm early in the morning, awoke me.  Turned sunny though, but much flash flooding, even an alert on my phone!  Hot day ahead - 90+ degrees and very humid, and much local complaint.  Spun into downtown Rochester, best on a Saturday morning when there is no traffic - using bike trails along the Genessee River.  Some amazing old architecture, saw the High Falls downtown in the Brown's Race area, where the mills used to be, now a loft neighborhood.  Headed back out on city streets to intercept the trail at Pittsford, a bustling suburb, very active, many people out and about on the canal trail, as expected, between Pittsford and the equally quaint Fairport.  Followed the trail as the people evaporated, and some of  the trail conditions were less maintained.  Appreciated the shady ride though, as the temps were rising.

High Falls of the Genessee River - Rochester

Typical old bridge crossing

Stopped for a banana and chocolate milk recharge in Palmyra (four churches on four corners of Church and Main) where Mormon church started and something of a mecca for that faith.  Arrived in Newark for lunch and a power nap by the park, as the heat and humidity was getting a bit stifling. Concerned because the trail was going to follow the road for awhile, in full sun exposure, so hydrated well. Turned out the road riding on State  Bike Route 5 was quite pleasant as a change of pace, with some gentle climbs, and I seemed to be recharged and not as affected by the heat.  Passed through Lyons, with their Peppermint Festival and witnessed the 'Tractor Dance".  More chocolate milk in tiny Clyde, along with a wetting down. Finally pulled into Weedsport for another room stay at the Best Western (with a dip in the pool) as the campground was quite a way off the route.  Met Greg, a retired music teacher - bicyclist doing an out-and-back century from Brockton (west of Rochester), so we spent a pleasant evening over dinner talking bikes and kids.  Just another day on the trail!

Lyons Peppermint Days Tractor Dance

July 19 - Weedsport to Utica
91 miles, very hot

Old section of Canal

After about mile 75 today, this was feeling like a Hilger Death March - heat and fatigue combined with a bit of a monotonous trail vista.  The day started out pleasant enough, and I made good time through the cool wooded pathway, mostly along the old Erie Canal, basically a long, stagnant flat ditch.  So I changed it up a bit and rode on a parallel roadway, only to find myself suddenly caught up in the bicycle race portion of the Gillie Girl Sprint Triathalon.  Hard not to try to keep up anyway.  But I did change a flat tire - just not mine - helped a gal along the way who couldn't get her tire off the rim.  She seemed desperate to finish her race (and was likely in my age group, though it would be impolitic of me to ask).  Finding the small puncture hole in her sidewall, I lined her tire with a $1 bill to keep the tube from expanding out the tire.  And off she went, a grateful thanks.  Hope she finished.

Remnants of  former commercial glory along the canal

The rest of the day was largely spent on the trail, some well groomed, mostly single-track in the less populated areas.  Makes for a slower go.  Though there was a fair measure of urban riding, especially in downtown Syracuse, where again the architecture of an earlier age caught my shutter, and Clinton Square where the canal had earlier bisected downtown.

Jordan Viaduct, formerly of water over water.

But I am continually fascinated by the thought of my passage along this historic trench - knowing so many preceded me 190 years ago, except with a team of mules (as the preferred draft animal).  Now, much of the original canal is grown in, and a shadow of its former self, though the viaducts, levee walls and other engineered structures are still visible - ghosts of a former time.  And during the heat of the day, I seek ways to soak my shirt as a cooling method, and did so at Lock 21, only to be further drenched shortly thereafter is a welcome downpour.

I continue to take comfort in the credit card camping option, though I almost camped  a lock, but there was no shower, and I was dirty and hot from the trail.  You might even say a bit gassed.  But nothing a great shower, a good recovery meal, and a good nights sleep can't cure.